April 30th, 2008

Absolut-ly horrifying

NYT tastes citrus vodkaHere’s a statistic that’ll curl your hair: “In 2007 … 7.1 million cases of flavored vodkas were sold in the United States, up from 2.9 million in 2000.” Holy crap, it must be stopped. The quote is from today’s New York Times review of a citrus vodka tasting. Eric Asimov and his panel sampled several denizens of what some bartenders call the “cosmo station.”

“While cosmopolitan-swilling consumers may favor these vodkas, for bartenders they are often a shortcut. Eben [Klemm, tasting panelist] likened them to packaged chicken stock, something that no serious chef would ever consider,” writes Asimov. He also points out that “these vodkas more than most are the products of marketing and positioning. You can get a sense of them by visiting their Web sites, which, with the exception of Hangar One and Charbay, are about everything except what’s in the glass.”

You knew that, of course, but it’s nice to be validated in the mainstream media.

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One Response to “Absolut-ly horrifying”

  1. Walt

    Klemm’s charge that a serious bartender should no more use a flavored vodka than a serious chef should use packaged chicken broth doesn’t bother me in the least. I guess I just don’t take vodka seriously to begin with, and vodka based faux-tinis even less so. Why not take that shortcut? The better part of that Cosmo is that it is being made from scratch with premium and fresh ingredients in good ratio, well-shaken and balanced.

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